Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Cochi Cochi Coo

April 3, Cochin/Kochi
I woke up this morning in Goa and went down to the beach. I had a great swim and headed back to the hotel to pack up and say auf wiedersein to my new German friends. I was planning to take a taxi alone to the airport, but it turned out that Juan Carlos, a fifty year old Argentinean living in Italy and another guest at Couthino’s Nest, was going at around the same time. If I keep getting lucky like that, I won’t have to pay full price for anything.
It turns out that Paramount, the airline I was flying from Goa to Cochi, is an all business class airline. I got the royal treatment; fresh lime juice and a cool wet towel before takeoff, a full lunch with the works, and cloth covered pillows. I don’t usually get into that sort of thing, but it was pretty nice.
A very smiley driver met me at the airport. He had been sent from Spencer Home, my hotel here, and he was very confused when Elizabeth and Daniel didn’t show up together. He kept asking me “Only you?” and I had to explain about my last name. He was very cute and played all kinds of his favorite Bollywood songs for me on the way to the hotel. My room is really nice here, with an attached bathroom and a big bed. I was supposed to have a smaller, cheaper room, but I think they gave it away or something because I’m getting this room at the cheaper price, which is 1/3 what it should cost. I’m not complaining.
Once I settled my stuff in, I set out to get a feel for the town. Cochi is actually made up of several parts; Fort Cochi, where I’m staying, the adjacent Mattancherry, and Eurukalam. The two former areas are the historic parts – quiet, atmospheric, and filled with remnants from prior Dutch, Portuguese, and British colonization. The other part is your typical loud, dirty, crowded Indian city. Anyway, it was dark, but from what I could see, this is a charming and very intriguing place. I was just wandering when I spotted a sign for a tabla and sitar concert going on immediately at the Kerala Kathakali Center. I quickly hurried over and got a ticket. It was very different than other music I’ve heard here, but it was cool to see a truly classical art form being maintained. The tabla (drums that not only act as percussion, but have melody too) are such a cool instrument. I’ve heard they are very hard to play skillfully and the musician who was playing them was incredible. The Kathakali Center is where they perform and teach Kathakali - an ancient form of ritual dance that is, from what I can tell, sort of like the Chinese opera with heavy make-up and men playing all of the parts. I’m going to attend a performance tomorrow night, but what I was most interested in is that they also offer classes there. I arranged to have a classical Indian dance lesson tomorrow morning and I’m really excited.
I miss Shanti Bhavan so much. I’ve been thinking about the kids all day. I don’t think I’ve really been able to talk about how special that place is – and I don’t know if I can convey it now- but every moment I spent there was such a gift. I called Amanda tonight to see how the fourth graders are doing and she said they were asking about me, so I feel good that they haven’t forgotten our time together. It’s great to be out traveling and seeing more of this country that I’ve come to love, but part of me wishes I was back there right now, getting to bed so I could get up at 6 to teach aerobics. I know I’ll be back there someday, but right now someday doesn’t seem soon enough.

1 comment:

  1. Thank you for the gift of your blog. We missed the account of your adventures over the past few weeks.

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